Mini-Split (Ductless) Air Conditioners

Residential mini-split air conditioning systems are a compelling alternative to the traditional central air conditioning systems that we Americans are so familiar with in many applications. 

Central air conditioning systems typically include an outside unit (condenser), an inside unit (furnace and coil or an air handler), and a network of supply and return ductwork to distribute the air throughout a home. Mini-splits do away with the inside unit and the ductwork and replace them with a series of "heads" which are like miniature inside units that mount either on a wall or in the ceiling of a room to provide local temperature control to that space. When people are becoming familiar with this concept, they sometimes envision window units, but mini-split systems are a permanent installation with a finished appearance, and code compliant efficiency ratings.

The most common applications we see for mini-split systems are home additions, garage enclosures, patio rooms, or any other standalone space that was not conditioned as part of a home's original construction. This is because adding one of these on to a home in a separate space does not affect the sizing requirements of the original central air conditioning system, and they are easier and quicker to install than a central system while also coming with better efficiency and individual temperature control in that space.

Why don't we install mini-split systems everywhere? Like all technologies mini-spits are not one size fits all applications. If you were to look at installing mini-splits throughout an entire home, you will typically pay more than a central system costs because of the number of mini-split heads needed to cool all the separate rooms. Mini-splits also do come with a different appearance that most American households are familiar with because of the head, which looks like an appliance, mounted in the space. This can turn off some consumers who prefer traditional grills in the ceiling. Finally, mini-splits do necessitate strict adherence to maintenance schedules as well. Just like central systems mini-splits require keeping the filters clean to work properly, but the problems that develop when filters are dirty can affect mini-splits more severely.

The Rise Of The Bardominium

Here in Texas, there is a lot of buzz around bardominiums in recent years. What are they, and why are they becoming so popular? The word “barndominium” itself is a play on two words “barn” and “condominium”, and originally was people creating a living space above their horse barn. 

The most popular type of barndominium construction is metal frame, siding and roof. Other types include old barns converted into living spaces or a pole barn enclosed to create a living space. 

 

What people love:

  • Cost-effective - Yes, they can be a lot cheaper than traditional construction.

  • Lifestyle - Bardominiums are a good fit for those looking to transition to country living and build a customizable “forever home”.

  • They are very versatile. The design is open and customizable, making them a fit for many purposes.

  • They are easy to construct going up much quicker than traditional construction, and there are a lot of kits available.

  • Additional space can be added. It is possible for you to add some walls to the space thanks to its design, or you can leave it open if that is what you want. 

  • It's durable - a metal barndominium is sturdy and offers protection against certain elements. At the same time, it won’t rot and will keep pests away. 

  • They are energy-efficient – including insulation and radiant barrier during the construction process will greatly help with energy bills.

  • Plenty of options to choose from - the variety of floor plans and contractors that can put them up is growing.

Drawbacks:

  • The exterior is much less versatile than the interior. Customizations costs will add up if you really don’t want it to look like a barn.

  • Financing is hard to find – a conventional mortgage likely won’t be an option.

  • More difficult to resell – a customized barndominium will have a smaller pool of potential buyers.

    What does Jim think?

    Jim addressed barndominums on the radio show - click to listen:

     

    Bardominiums - Pro's, Con's and Costs

     

    Single-Person Living Quarters Options

    Here he addresses options when seeking a simple space for a single occupant - including converted shed, bardominium or tiny home.

Decking Materials

While there are more options than ever for decking, we take a look at the upsides and downsides of the three leading contenders you'll be considering when planning your deck.

 

Pressure-Treated Lumber

Pros:

It's affordable, readily available, and easy to cut and fasten with nails or screws. Most is milled from southern yellow pine, and then chemically treated to resist rot, fungus and wood-boring bugs. PT Lumber is the #1 decking material sold today.

Cons:

PT lumber is not very dimensionally stable, so it has a tendency to crack, split and warp. Routine maintenance is necessary to prolong the life and look of the deck. This could mean an annual power washing and an application of stain or wood preservative every two or three years. Jim's preferred stain and sealer is Ready Seal.

 

Redwood & Cedar

Pros:

It's the real deal. The choice of purist because of its rich color and natural beauty, and because it isn't soaked in chemicals or preservatives. Both species contain tannins and oils that make them naturally resistant to rot, decay and voracious insects.

Cons:

Redwood and cedar each cost at least three times more than pressure-treated lumber. Redwood and cedar require an annual power washing and coat of finish every three to four years. You will also need to apply a water-repellant wood preservative to reduce checking (fine splits). Jim's preferred stain and sealer is Ready Seal.

 

Composites and Plastic Lumber

Pros:

Fastest growing portion of the decking material market today. Composites, like Trex, TimberTech, CorrectDeck, and Veranda, are composed primarily of wood fibers and recycled plastic. The result is a druable board that resists splinters, warping, rotting or splitting.

Plastic lumber, like Azek Deck, ForeverDeck and Leisure Decking, is made from 100 percent plastic (recycled and/or virgin); it contains no wood fibers. It, too, is highly resistant to staining and decay, and free of knots, cracks and splinters. Prices vary, but composites are typically less expensive than plastic lumber. They're extremely low-maintenance and never need to be sanded, refinished or stained.

Cons:

With composites Jim typically recommends 12-inch centers as the composite boards will sag over time in our hot climate. So, if you want to switch your present deck top boards from wood to composite you will likely also have to redo or add centers. Mold and mildew can grow in shady, damp areas of the deck, and some composites can eventually show signs of decay, which makes sense since they are partly wood. 

They just aren’t real wood.


What did Jim use on his deck?

Jim went with cedar finished off with Ready Seal. Watch the video here:

Cracks in Concrete

Jim frequently gets questions from homeowners when they start to notice cracks in their concrete. He says there is no need to worry about small cracks. All concrete cracks by nature – that’s why we put reinforcement in it – to hold it together and control the cracks.

What to be on the look out for:

·      If the cracks are large enough to slip 2 quarters in

·      If they start to stair-step – one side rising higher than the other 

Once either of these occurs it may be time to get someone out to evaluate the foundation and determine the cause of the movement.

As for those hairline cracks – sleep well they are nothing to worry about.

 

Are You Ready For When The Lights Go Out?

Texas weather can be unpredictable and extremes can result in electrical power going out unexpectedly. These outages can impact the whole community and economy. Preparation is key to safely riding out the next power outage.

Preparing for a Power Outage

Take an inventory of the items you need that rely on electricity. Plan for batteries and other alternative power sources to meet your needs when the power goes out, such as a portable charger or power bank. Have flashlights for every household member. Determine whether your home phone will work in a power outage and how long battery backup will last.

Know Your Medical Needs

Talk to your medical provider about a power outage plan for medical devices powered by electricity and refrigerated medicines. Find out how long medication can be stored at higher temperatures and get specific guidance for any medications that are critical for life.

Food Storage

Have enough nonperishable food and water. Keep freezers and refrigerators closed. The refrigerator will keep food cold for about four hours. A full freezer will keep the temperature for about 48 hours. Use coolers with ice if necessary. Monitor temperatures with a thermometer. Throw out food if the temperature is 40 degrees or higher.

Generator Safety

Many homeowners have a generator on stand-by for power outages. Here are a few basic reminders related to generators.

Remember misuse of generators can have serious outcomes.

Never run a generator in an enclosed space or indoors. Most generator-related injuries and deaths involve CO poisoning from generators used indoors or in partially enclosed spaces. Always place the generator at least 15 feet from the house and away from doors and windows.

Don’t run a portable generator in the rain. The exception is if you cover and vent it. 

Before refueling, turn off a gasoline-powered generator and let it cool. 

Stock up on extra gasoline and store it properly. Adding stabilizer to the gas in the can will help it last longer, but don’t store gasoline near any potential sources of heat or fire, or inside the house.

Avoid electrical hazards. If you don’t yet have a transfer switch, you can use the outlets on the generator if you follow certain precautions. It’s best to plug in appliances directly to the generator using only an undamaged properly rated extension cord.

Install a transfer switch before the next storm.  A transfer switch connects the generator to your circuit panel and lets you power hardwired appliances while avoiding the glaring safety risk of using extension cords.

Don’t attempt to backfeed your house. Backfeeding means trying to power your home’s wiring by plugging the generator into a wall outlet. This reckless and dangerous practice presents an electrocution risk to utility workers and neighbors served by the same utility transformer.

Attic Ventilation

Attic ventilation is a key component of your home's energy efficiency and longevity.

The overall purpose is to create air movement with the air coming in the soffit vents and then out the top. Soffit vents located near the eaves are the intake vents. While the hot air exhaust vents are located at the peak of the roof. When selecting an attic ventilation system remember no matter what system you are using do not combine exhaust vent types. 

Jim's Favorite Hot Air Exhaust Vents:

1.      Ridge Vents

2.      Solar Powered Fans

3.      Air Hawk

4.      Whirlybird

5.      Electric Powered Fans

The key is to have plenty of soffit vents - ideally continuous soffit vents. You typically want soffit vents 4 feet apart. There is no such thing as "too many soffit vents". Builders usually put them in every 8 feet, which is about half of what you need. For every 150 square feet of attic space you need one foot of ventilation.

Old AC System: Repair vs. Replace

Being without air conditioning for any amount of time in the summer in Texas is something we all want to avoid. When your system breaks down a good AC tech can get it going again, but when is it more cost effective to invest in a new system?

There are several factors to consider:

 

  • If your current AC system is 15+ years old then the components have already begun to degrade, and you are buying time until there will be a major component failure. While it is not necessary to replace the system due to age alone you should expect component failure is coming and budget ahead accordingly. Many homeowners with systems of this age choose to preemptively replace their AC systems so they are not left without AC during the heat of the summer.

  • If your current AC system is 10+ years old and a major component has failed it may be time to replace your AC system here too. If, for example, an outdoor unit (condenser) requires repairs that total half of the cost for a replacement of the complete outdoor unit then it begins to make sense to replace the unit. Repairing only the broken components will get you a 10-year parts warranty only on those replacement components. Replacing the whole unit will get you a 10-year parts warranty on everything.

  • If your current AC system is a builder's grade code minimum system, then odds are it is not very efficient, and your energy bill lets you know this every month. While the energy savings payback wouldn't make sense to replace a brand-new builder's grade AC system if your system is several years old and already starting to have maintenance issues then you may consider a new AC system to save on that energy bill.

Finding A Local Handyman

Throughout homeownership you will come across jobs that fall somewhere between DIY and calling out a large residential contractor. This could include things like painting, sprinkler repair, hanging shelves, or a whole host of projects around the house. Listeners reach out to Jim every week looking for his recommendations for contractors in their area, but sometimes he won’t have a local company or individual that he can confidently recommend to you. He understands it can be challenging to find the right person to do what can be considered a small job. 

But, please don’t try to save money by going with a handyman when you really need a specialist. Repairs such as HVAC, foundation, plumbing and electrical should be done by a company with experienced, trained and licensed professionals.

Many times, we turn to on-line ratings to guide us, but take those with a grain of salt as those can be manipulated and misleading. Instead look to others in your community for recommendations.

Resources worth exploring when seeking a recommended contractor:

  • Neighbors or others in your community

  • Ask at a local church if any of the congregation can help with handyman repairs.

  • Ask at a local hardware store (best if it is a neighborhood store like Ace or True Value). They see contractors and handymen on a daily basis and will likely know someone who is experienced in your area of need.

  • Local senior centers often have lists of resources that include local handymen, or services that match seniors with companies that can help.

  • Ask trusted contractors in other areas - plumbing, AC, electrical, etc. who they might know that could help you with a particular job.

  • Contact a realtor who does a lot of business. Busy agents have a list of craftspeople they call upon to help them get homes ready to sell, including handymen, electricians, plumbers, roofers, and painters. A wise agent may give you a referral, hoping you’ll remember the favor if you ever need help buying or selling a home.

When talking with the contactor take time to explain your project and your expectations. Be sure to ask them about their training and experience in this area. Also, appreciate the contractor who turns down the job or is comfortable in admitting it is not an area of expertise. And be leery of the guy who re-assures you that he will “figure it out”.

Finding a great local handyman or a network of trustworthy contractors in your community can be a huge help for maintaining a home you love.

How Do Chainsaw Chaps Actually Work?

Have you ever wondered how chainsaw chaps actually work to protect you? Well we certainly have.

When you first look at a pair of chaps you may be unsure how these partial pants could possibly stop a runaway chainsaw from cutting your leg. But there is a lot more to chaps than meets the eye. These chaps from STIHL are built with a three layer system. The bottom layer is a thick fabric that rests on top of your pants. The top layer is a thinner fabric that is designed to tear away if it comes into contact with a spinning chain. The middle layer is filled with loose fibers that grab onto the chain and quickly stop the blade from spinning before it can cut through the bottom layer.

All that sounds great but we wanted to see it for ourselves. That’s why we took a pair of chaps, a chainsaw and created our own test. Let us know what you think!

Keeping Out The Texas Sun

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All Texans are looking for ways to reduce the demand on their air conditioner this summer. And we all know that a large source for solar heat gain is our windows. Let’s get smarter about windows and watch those summer energy bills drop.

 

For many homeowners it might finally be time to replace your current windows. Replacing outdated inefficient windows can make a big dent in your energy bill. But what makes a window energy efficient? Please refer to this comprehensive guide ---> Selecting Energy Efficient Windows in Texas. To learn more contact THI Partner America's Choice Windows.

 

So, what about some other strategies? The Department of Energy (DOE) says that smart management of window coverings can reduce heat gain by up to 77 percent. And, as a bonus, these same practices can reduce heat loss in the winter. Take a close look at the windows in your home and we bet you can take further steps to keep things cooler in the summer. One study found that 75% of residential window coverings remain in the same position every day. If this describes your habits, be strategic about which coverings you open in the morning. In the summer, you may want to keep certain window coverings closed to reduce heat gain. During the hottest months many people will keep windows covered during daylight hours.

 

Outdoor Options

Awnings

Awnings offer an excellent defense against the sun in Texas' perpetually hot weather. Exterior awnings can reduce solar heat gain by up to 65 percent for south-facing windows and 77 percent for west-facing windows, according to the DOE. For best results choose awnings in light colors that reflect more sunlight. In the winter, you can roll up retractable awnings to let the sun warm up your house.

Exterior Shutters & Shades

Exterior shutters and shades are usually made of a variety of materials, including fabric, wood, steel, aluminum, or vinyl. They are very effective at reducing solar heat gain. Most exterior shutter systems include a mechanical crank, rod, or motor to allow operation from indoors. This can help encourage daily use of the shutters and may be required by local fire codes.

 

Interior Options

Shutters

Interior shutters can really enhance the design in a room and will provide excellent heat control. Wood is a great option, but also consider Sunburst Polywood Shutters. They are more energy efficient than any other window treatment: up to 70% more than wood shutters and 1600% more than aluminum mini-blinds. Polywood Shutters are also much more durable than wood.

Curtains/Drapes

The ability of curtains and drapes to reduce heat gain depends on fabric type (closed or open weave) and color. Studies show that medium-colored draperies with white plastic backings can reduce heat gain by 33 percent. Hang the curtains as close to the window as possible.

Shades

When properly installed, window shades are a simple and effective way to save energy, but they need to be drawn all day to work. Mount them as close to the glass as possible within the window frame, creating a sealed space. Quilted roller shades and Roman shades with several layers of fiber batting act as both insulation and an air barrier and are more effective than other soft window treatments.

Blinds

Because of the horizontal slats, it's difficult to control heat loss through interior window blinds, although they do offer some flexibility. Unlike shades, you can adjust the slats to control light and ventilation. When completely closed, highly reflective blinds can reduce heat gain by around 45 percent, says the DOE. 

 

Fixed Options

Highly Reflective Films

Films applied directly to the glass can be a great option in specific circumstances. Silver, mirror-like films typically are more effective than colored, more transparent films, and east- and west-facing windows benefit most because of their greater potential for heat gain. Keep in mind that reflective films are tricky to clean and may affect your view.

Mesh Windows Screens

Solar screens can reduce solar heat gain, UV damage, and glare by diffusing solar radiation. Experts advise mounting the screen to an exterior frame and covering the entire window. 

Certain screen options provide multiple benefits. Security screens are screen applications for windows and doors that provide superior protection against intruders, outside heat, the suns damaging UV rays, and other unwanted pests. Security screens from Security Screen Masters can block up to 66% of solar heat and 66% of UV rays, performing like your normal sunscreens while providing impact resistant doors and windows.

Refresh Natural Wood Throughout Your Home

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Jim describes a simple, effective way to clean and refresh all the natural wood in your home - cabinets, doors, paneling, furniture and more

1) Mix equal parts of Boiled Linseed Oil and Mineral Spirits. 

2) Use a Double Knot Steel Wool (00) to scrub it down - remember you are cleaning the surface and not taking off the finish. Use more mineral spirits to thin the mixture as you go.

3) Follow by wiping the wood down with a clean cloth.

Important note: Do not store the steel wool or cloths in plastic - let them air dry

 

New, Innovative, All-Natural Attic Insulation

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Jim is always looking for new innovative home improvement products that can bring value and comfort to Texas homeowners. Today he visits a Milo Insulation job site for the installation of this new alternative attic insulation. MILO Insulation is made exclusively from agricultural Sorghum (or "Milo"), called MILEX™ 2.0. Using state-of-the-art equipment and a patented production process, the "green" insulation outperforms traditional fiberglass or cellulose insulators in nearly every category. MILEX™ is 100% Natural, 100% free of harmful, toxic chemicals, 100% biodegradable, 100% renewable and is grown by local farmers right here in the Texas panhandle.

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Phone: 806-995-1673

Website: MiloInsulation.com

How Much Insulation Does Your House Need?

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Well, it depends where you live; for instance, in an attic in Dallas you are looking for about 15" or a R49 rating, but in Houston you are typically looking for about 12" or a R38. Now there is absolutely nothing wrong with stepping up to that R49 rating.... but be careful not to get your rating so high that you will never recoup the money that you put in. You really want to take a look at the government standard for your particular area on what amount of insulation is recommended. Walls are similar. They can have ratings, but typically in a wall, you will be looking for somewhere around a R18. That is really about as good as you are going to do, but here is the "kicker" on that. To get an R18 you are looking at 5-1/2" of insulation. Most of our walls are built with 2" x4" studs which is again the reason I will recommend you injection foam insulation. Injection foam insulation in a 2" x 4" wall is the best way to meet that standard to make your home very energy efficient.

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Did you know that 9 out of 10 homes in the U.S. are under-insulated? To increase the comfort and savings in your home check your insulation levels to see if you could benefit from adding to your existing insulation. 

Visit EnergyStar.gov to learn about R-value recommendations

and how to Rule Your Attic.

French vs. Surface Drains

Standing water can be harmful to your foundation and landscaping.

Installing a drain can help, but which one?

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French drain is sub-surface with a perforated pipe surrounded by gravel. As water hits the gravel it travels to the pipe which redirects water away from an area.

Surface drains are catch basins that capture the water at low points in the yard and divert that water using a solid pipe.

While French drains can be very effective it is much more common to need a surface drain. And please be aware using a perforated pipe with surface drain or gutter down spout can create problems as that pipe with only inject the water right back into the soil.

Watch here as Jim breaks down the difference between French and surface drains.

At Jim’s house he discovered standing water in his side yard. His issue doesn’t require installing a drainage system, but some landscaping maintenance.

Energy Efficient Windows

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Fall is here and those first cold spells will be arriving soon around the state. If you have cheap “builder-grade” aluminum windows you can feel a distinct chill when you walk by the window. That’s the cold air coming in – just imagine what’s happening during the hot summer months. These drafts can be caused by several things.

Problems with your weatherstripping and seal - This issue can appear around the outside edge of the frame, where the frame and the glass meet, or anywhere that panes of glass overlap, open, or move. This can be caused by aging (especially for wood windows), wear and tear – as you open and shut your windows the weather stripping can become compacted or torn causing air to come in.

If your windows are in good condition, taking steps to improve their efficiency may be the most cost-effective option to increase the comfort of your home and save money on energy costs. Follow these recommendations for caulk and weatherstripping. Also check out this do-it-yourself project to learn how to weatherstrip double-hung windows.

Cheap low-grade windows – If you have aluminum single-pane windows put your hand on your window on a day that we are experiencing extreme outdoor temperatures, if you can feel those temperatures through the window you are losing money. You’re HVAC system is having to work extra to make up for the transfer through your windows.

How To Clear A Clog

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When the plunger doesn't get the job done, then what? It depends on the line that is plugged. If it is a kitchen sink, you have a P-trap underneath that you can take off, clean out and get that going again. But if it is the toilet, you are really going to want to run a "snake" down through the toilet. What is a "snake"? It's nothing more than a cable that spins as it is going in. Now you have to be extremely careful when doing a toilet, because it will scar the porcelain down there and that scar will stay forever. Use something that has a plastic coating on it, so you can get it far enough in there where the scarring doesn't show. It's really a cable, and as it is spinning, it is cutting through whatever is blocking the pipe. Once the water starts flowing again your clog is taken care of. 

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What is a P-trap?

The reason for the P-trap, and why we don't just run the water straight out, is it keeps the sewer gas from being able to back up into the home. It is basically a safety issue. The P-trap is a common place for blockage but is easy to take off and clean. However, always run water in bathrooms, kitchens, and showers at least once a month to keep water in that P-trap and keep sewer gas out of your home. 

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What is a Snake?

Snaking a drain is performed with an auger, a coiled "snake" piece with a handle on one end. There are two types of plumbing snakes: drain augers, which are more common, and closet augers, which are smaller and mostly used by plumbers to unclog toilets. 

What About Chemical Drain Cleaners? 

Have you been thinking about using some liquid drain cleaner? Well, let me save you some money. Don't waste your time. It is not going to work. Liquid drain cleaners are supposed to go down and dissolve what is in the pipe....to make it start flowing again. I have yet to see one that does what it advertises to do. So save your money and snake the line instead.....and you will have it going much quicker. 

Prevent Your Home From Flooding

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Flooding can affect every aspect of its victims’ lives. Not only are most of your possessions lost, but your daily routine is disrupted, you are displaced for months on end, you dispute with insurance and contractors, and that’s not to mention the financial and emotional burden. It’s time to take back the control.

FloodFrame is the comprehensive solution to protect your home and your life from the next flood.

How does it work? – FloodFrame works by buoyancy. A strong but lightweight cloth is wrapped around a lightweight tube. They are placed inside a box around the perimeter of your home or structure. One end of the cloth is anchored in the ground. During a flood the tube and the cloth will float on top of water, much like a pool noodle. The cloth will continue to unroll against and up the wall of your home, providing a barrier between the flood and your home.

What does it look like? – It will look much like a trench drain with a nice lid on top surrounding your home, approximately 6-inches from the base of your foundation.

Why FloodFrame? – FloodFrame is the most affordable, effective, and simple option for flood protection on the market. FloodFrame works automatically, needing no electricity, chemicals, or human intervention, using only the force of water and physics to move into place. FloodFrame is always ready for action and concealed underground. The goal is for the homeowner to forget it is installed, until the day it is needed.  

What about AC units, driveways, garage doors, patios, pool equipment, etc? – No problem. FloodFrame can go around and/or through any obstacle. FloodFrame’s team of certified and experienced contractors and engineers have seen it all and solved it all.

How do I get one? – Reach out to FloodFrame via the website FloodFrameHouston.com or email at office@floodframehouston.com, or simply call Bearl Wilkinson -- 281-726-8251.

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Sealing Air Leaks

Air sealing reduces heat and cooling loss by eliminating air leaks in the building. The Department of Energy graphic below has a useful cross-section diagram illustrating the most common air leakage spots.

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This summer keep the cool air inside!

Texas summers are hot and air leaks in your home can waste a lot of your energy dollars. If you are ready to save energy - and money it is time to caulk, seal, and weather strip all seams, cracks, and openings to the outside.

We immediately think of sealing windows and doors, but don't overlook other areas such as recessed lights, outlets and switches that let the cool air out.

The folks at Energy.gov have put together some great tips regarding sealing air leaks and offer good how-to's for getting the job done.

Reducing the amount of air that leaks in and out of your home can be a cost-effective way to reduce heating and cooling costs, improve durability, increase comfort, and create a healthier indoor environment. Caulking and weatherstripping are two simple and effective air-sealing techniques that offer quick returns on investment, often one year or less. Caulk is generally used for cracks and openings between stationary house components such as around door and window frames, and weatherstripping is used to seal components that move, such as doors and operable windows.  

Tips for Sealing Air Leaks

·       Test your home for air tightness.

·       Caulk and weatherstrip doors and windows that leak air.

·       Caulk and seal air leaks where plumbing, ducting, or electrical wiring comes through walls, floors, ceilings, and soffits over cabinets.

·       Install foam gaskets behind outlet and switch plates on walls.

·       Inspect dirty spots in your insulation for air leaks and mold. Seal leaks with low-expansion spray foam made for this purpose and install house flashing if needed.

·       Look for dirty spots on your ceiling paint and carpet, which may indicate air leaks at interior wall/ceiling joints and wall/floor joists, and caulk them.

·       Replace single-pane windows with storm windows or replace them with more efficient double-pane low-emissivity windows.

·       Use foam sealant on larger gaps around windows, baseboards, and other places where air may leak out.

·       Cover your kitchen exhaust fan to stop air leaks when not in use.

·       Check your dryer vent to be sure it is not blocked. This will save energy and may prevent a fire.

·       Replace door bottoms and thresholds with ones that have pliable sealing gaskets.

·       Keep the fireplace flue damper tightly closed when not in use or seal the flue – see below*

·       Seal air leaks around fireplace chimneys, furnaces, and gas-fired water heater vents with fire-resistant materials such as sheet metal or sheetrock and furnace cement caulk.

*Sealing Your Fireplace Flue with an Inflatable Chimney Balloon.

Fireplace flues are made from metal, and over time repeated heating and cooling can cause the metal to warp or break, creating a channel for air loss. To seal your flue when not in use, consider an inflatable chimney balloon. Inflatable chimney balloons fit beneath your fireplace flue when not in use, are made from durable plastic, and can be removed easily and reused hundreds of times. If you forget to remove the balloon before making a fire, the balloon will automatically deflate within seconds of coming into contact with heat. A reasonably capable do-it-yourselfer can create an inexpensive, reusable fireplace flue plug by filling a plastic trash bag with fiberglass batt scraps and jamming it into the flue. Attach a durable cord with a tag that hangs down into the fireplace to (1) remind you the flue is blocked and (2) provide an easy plug removal method.